1. LESSON – 11 ADAPTATION OF SHIRT BLOCK IN DESIGNER SHIRT LESSON – 11 ADAPTATION OF SHIRT BLOCK IN DESIGNER SHIRT

2. INTRODUCTION What is adaptation ? To change in shirt block to create a new design – by modification, we create adapted pattern –method known as adaptation Adaptation made on final block – we can make shirt with raglan sleeve, shirt with kimono sleeve etc.

3. ( 1 ) SHIRT WITH RAGLAN SLEEVE ( BY ADAPTATION ) BODY SECTION : Trace body section of block – take 1 cm off front shoulder line, add 1 cm to back shoulder line Mark points A and B – 4 cm in front new shoulder points; mark C on fitting line 2.5 cm below back pitch point; mark D directly opposite on fitting line on front armhole; mark E on fitting line of front pitch point-

4. RAGLAN SLEEVE

5. CONSTRUCTION LINES BODY SECTION Draw curved lines from A-C & B–D - draw in 1cm dart on back shoulder. Cut off shaded section,close back shoulder dart, separate front and back body sections. Add seam allowance to side seam and raglan seams from A-C & B-D.

6. CONSTRUCTION LINES SLEEVE :- Trace one piece sleeve block, draw centre line of sleeve 1 cm forward. Mark point F at new sleeve head point; mark G on fitting line 2.5 cm below back pitch point. H on fitting line at front pitch point, H-K = E-D on body section- ( continue….)

7. -Separate sleeve vertically from F. Place back body section to back sleeve ; place C to touch G, place shoulder point to F, -Place front body section to front sleeve ; -Place D to touch K, place shoulder point to F -Add seam allowance from A-G & B-K -Add seam allowance to centre seams curving inwards to touch F

8. 2 ) SHIRT WITH KIMONO SLEEVE ( BY ADAPTATION ) Note : ( Use an easy fitting blocks for kimono sleeve ) BACK : Trace back body section of block required ; mark point 1 and 2 on side seam 1-3 = 5 cm square out, 3-4 = 5 cm, 2-5 = 3.5cm 2-6 = ½ measurement 1-2 + 1.5 cm Mark 7 at shoulder point, 8 at neck point -

9. METHOD DEMONSTRATION

10. INSTRUCTIONS FOR KIMONO Split sleeve along the line from balance point at sleeve head Place back sleeve section to back body section Place underarm point of sleeve to 4 and sleeve head to shoulder point 7 ( the sleeve head may not always touch this pointexactly 7-9 is 1.5 cm, join 8-9, extend the line to wrist parallel to line of sleeve Join 6 to wrist point 10 at base of underarm seam ( using same instructions for front )