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Unit 4: Flash Photography Tim Clouse
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What Do I Have to do for Week 4 Read Chapter 5 of your text Crime Scene Photography and Chapter 9, pages 457-459 concerning Nighttime Accident Photography. Review key terms Complete the discussion questions regarding the basics of camera operation with various lenses. Participate in Web Field Trip Complete and submit Project 1 Complete Essay Attend the weekly seminar Respond to the discussion board
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What is a flash? 1830 the first flash bulb was created It has pro’s and con’s Used to create artificial lighting for photography purposes Lights the primary subject Fills light in shadow areas
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Types of Flashes In-Camera Flash Unit Hot-shoe Flash Unit Slave Flash Unit
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Guide Numbers A means to discuss a flash unit’s relative output power Measured in feet or meters Vary by ISO (Most are compared at 100 ISO) Shutter Speed
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Guide Numbers GN 160= Very Strong and expensive flash GN 120= Norm with many LE agencies GN 80=Less powerful but may be used by LE GN 56=Weak Flash GN 36= In-Camera flash
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Guide Numbers GN/distance=f/stop So if we have a GN of 120 and a distance of 12’ 120/12=10, so 10 would be the recommended f/stop or f/11
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Flash Sync Speed 1=1 sec. 60=1/60 th of a sec. 2=1/2 sec. 125=1/125 th of a sec. 4=1/4 of a sec.250=1/250 th of a sec. 8=1/8 th of a sec. 500=1/500 th of a sec. 15=1/15 th of a sec. 1000=1/1000 th of a sec. 30= 1/30 th of a sec. 2000=1/2000th of a sec. 4000=1/4000 th of a sec. B=As long as the button is push shutter is open
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Sync Speed Synchronization Speed Is the fastest shutter speed at which the camera should be set whenever an electronic flash is to be used. Camera’s vary in sync speed You should get familiarized with your camera before using it
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Indication on Shutter Speed Dial Sync speed will be indicated on the dial as RED X or X Or some other indication
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What does it mean to Sync At this speed Shutter is completely open Flash goes off Shutter then closes after flash has gone off The camera documents the scene which is now filled with light
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Faster shutter speeds The camera has a SYNC speed for a reason Higher speeds may not capture the light High shutter speeds may only capture half the frame Lower speeds could blur the image “Ghost” images could also result in slower speeds
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Flash and ISO Newer flash units have an ISO setting just like the camera Automatic flash units need to know the correct ISO to ensure good shot DX coding
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Manual Flash Mode Flash uses all power available to it Adjustment of the shot is with the f/stop The use of GN now have to be used Newer flash units show this information Older flash units have a dial which indicate the f/stop
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The rule of the “Normal” Room 10’ x 12’ room White ceiling 8’ to 9’ high Light colored walls Why is this important to know? Light not only travels straight, but upward and laterally
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When not to trust the flash recommendation 1.In smaller rooms 2.In larger rooms 3.Outside Bracket, Bracket, Bracket, Bracket
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The Flash Head On-Camera vs. Off-Camera Flash unit will flash the light higher than the lens at close distances With closer distances mover the flash lower to get more light on the subject This can be accomplished by using a PC Cord or Remote Flash Cord P.226
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Red-Eye Effect Flash is in hot shoe or directly over camera Light from the flash enters the eye Reflects off the blood vessels at the back of the inside of the eyes Travels directly back toward the camera
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To Keep Red-Eye out of the Shot The use of a camera bracket, keeping the flash off of the camera Separating the flash from the axis of the lens The closer the flash is to the lens the more likely Red-Eye will be produced Brackets also help in holding the camera p. 228
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Flash-Camera Orientation The film plane and flash are in the same shape For this reason the flash should always be in the same direction as the film plane If not there could be a shadow effect on the photo Camera vertical=Flash being vertical Camera horizontal=Flash being horizontal
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Problems with Manual Flash Mode Slow Battery drain Recharge time Bracketing
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Inverse Square Law As light spreads outward from a point light source, its intensity varies inversely by the square of the distance traveled. Light travels in a cone like area As it travels it becomes weaker I=1/D^2 I=Intensity of Light D=Distance
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Effect of Inverse Square Law Flash Head Brighter Light Less Light on subject due to light spreading out and dissipating Subject Think of it like a flashlight or head light on a car, as the light goes out it spreads over a larger area and then becomes dimmer the farther it goes out Less light on the subject means it gets darker and needs more light
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For our purpose No photos less than 2 feet from the camera No photos beyond 30 feet from the camera (DOF)
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Built in Flash Units Has a low GN Only use if it is all you have Red-Eye will probably happen
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Fill in Flash Use when part of the scene is strongly lit by ambient light and the primary subject is in a shadow area. Idea ISO is 100 Take a meter reading filling the frame in the bright light with the CORRECT shutter speed Flash should be in Manual Mode for proper effect Get the proper distance as listed on the flash Adjust flash Take photo PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE
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Oblique Lighting Shows more detail in a 3D effect Shows more depth and the texture of the subject Shoe prints Tire tracks Finger print latent's Bit marks
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Bounce Flash Mirrors Smaller rooms Glass Liquids Flash must be set to manual mode p. 280-283
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Painting with Light Over Large Scenes Photographing a large scene at night with one flash over multiple times with one camera More than a one person show Communication is the key Again, PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE!! Then PRACTICE some more
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Timed Exposure Also used on larger scenes The use of the B button for timed exposure f/stop set at 8 Both Painting with light and Timed Exposure methods are good for Crash Scenes
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Project 1 Photograph #1: You are to set up some type of item that could be used as a weapon in a crime, i.e., gun, knife, screwdriver, etc. Position the weapon in such a way that it is in the shadow caused by sunlight similar to those examples on pages 264 & 266 of your text. Attempt to use a flash-fill technique to illuminate the weapon. Depending on the type of camera and accessories you have to use will affect the results of your photograph. Do not worry about trying to make the photograph turn out perfect. The idea is to learn from the technique.
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Photograph #2: Set up another similar piece of evidence, but place it in an area of total or almost total darkness. This photograph can be taken indoors or outdoors. It can be any type of object, but you can use the same from the first photograph if you wish. Take a photograph using direct flash technique, not bounced or diffused. You should be close enough to the object to be able to identify what it is in the photograph.
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Write an essay describing the results of your photographs. Include exactly what type of camera you used (brand name and model, digital or film), your ISO settings, type of lens (either the exact focal length such as 50mm or fixed pre-focused). Everything about the camera should be described in the essay. Did your photographs turn out the way you expected? Why or why not? Describe in detail why your photographs turned out the way they did and what could be done to improve the photographs if anything. What other equipment would you have used if you had access to it? If you took digital pictures or had film converted to digital, submit them with your essay. Be sure to name your photograph files with your last name and photo 1 or 2. Example: smithphoto1.jpg & smithphoto2.jpg. All digital photographs submitted should be in jpeg format. If you used film and are unable to scan them or have them processed as digital you do not have to submit them.
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Next week: Week 5 There will be NO seminar next week If you have work that you are behind on get caught up this week and get that work turned in for grading Week 6—begin reading Chapter 6 See you in two weeks
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