1. Planting landscape trees by Edward F. Gilman, professor Environmental Horticulture Department University of Florida http://hort.ufl.edu/woody/planting

2. Outline of planting Look up for wires/lights Dig shallow/wide hole Find the top-most root Place tree in hole Position top root 1-2” above landscape soil Straighten tree Remove synthetic materials Add backfill soil and firm the root ball Add mulch to cover root ball sides Stake if needed Tree ready for mulch

3. Look up! If there is a wire, security light, or building nearby that could interfere with proper development of the tree canopy as it grows, plant elsewhere Or plant a small- maturing tree

4. Outline of planting Look up for wires/lights Dig shallow/wide hole Find the top-most root Place tree in hole Position top root 1-2” above landscape soil Straighten tree Remove synthetic materials Add backfill soil and firm the root ball Add mulch to cover root ball sides Stake if needed

5. Shallow is better than deep Dig the planting hole as wide as possible The depth of the hole should be less than the height of the root ball

6. Outline of planting Look up for wires/lights Dig shallow/wide hole Find the top-most root Place tree in hole Position top root 1-2” above landscape soil Straighten tree Remove synthetic materials Add backfill soil and firm the root ball Add mulch to cover root ball sides Stake if needed

7. Find the top-most root The point where the top-most root meets the trunk of the tree should be no more than 2”deep in the root ball

8. Root ball quality (RIGHT) Too much soil on top of the root ball can indicate a poor-quality root ball (LEFT) Trees with the top-most root near the surface of the root ball have more of a root system

9. Remove excess soil - containers If the top-most root is too deep, remove soil from the top of the root-ball so the top-most root is within the top 2” of soil Three inches of soil and media were removed from the top of this ball

10. Check for problem roots When you remove excess soil, also check for and cut roots that circle, those that are kinked or those that cross over major roots

11. Outline of planting Look up for wires/lights Dig shallow/wide hole Find the top-most root Place tree in hole Position top root 1-2” above landscape soil Straighten tree Remove synthetic materials Add backfill soil and firm the root ball Add mulch to cover root ball sides Stake if needed Tree ready for mulch

12. Lifting tree into the planting hole To avoid damage when setting the tree in the hole, lift the tree with straps or rope around the root ball, not by the trunk

13. Outline of planting Look up for wires/lights Dig shallow/wide hole Find the top-most root Place tree in hole Position top root 1-2” above landscape soil and remove defects Straighten tree Remove synthetic materials Add backfill soil and firm the root ball Add mulch to cover root ball sides Stake if needed Tree ready for mulch

14. Position the tree in the soil Most professionals agree that it is better to plant the tree a little high than too deeply If the tree is too deep, tip it from side to side or raise the tree up while sliding soil under it until the root system is at the appropriate depth

15. Set at the right level? If the top-most root is at the surface of this root ball, this plant is set at about the right depth - more likely, it is too deep If the top-most root is not within 2” of the surface, this plant is set too deeply

16. Root ball set correctly To adjust for the top-most root being too deep in the root ball, set the top of the ball several inches higher than the landscape soil

17. Remove excess soil – B&B If the point where the top-most root meets the trunk is more than 2” from the top of the soil, use your hands to remove any excess soil from the top of the root-ball

18. Exposing top-most root Exposing the point where the top-most root emerges from the trunk serves as a convenient way to check for root defects such as circling roots

19. Treating root defects Cut or spread out any circling or kinked roots growing up above the top-most root

20. Cutting circling roots These roots were cut because they circled the outside edge of the root ball New roots will grow quickly into backfill soil following cutting

21. Outline of planting Look up for wires/lights Dig shallow/wide hole Find the top-most root Place tree in hole Position top root 1-2” above landscape soil Straighten tree Remove synthetic materials Add backfill soil and firm the root ball Add mulch to cover root ball sides Stake if needed Tree ready for mulch

22. Straighten the tree Before adding backfill, be sure to check that the tree is straight by looking at it from two perpendicular directions

23. Outline of planting Look up for wires/lights Dig shallow/wide hole Find the top-most root Place tree in hole Position top root 1-2” above landscape soil Straighten tree Remove synthetic materials Add backfill soil and firm the root ball Add mulch to cover root ball sides Stake if needed Tree ready for mulch

24. Balled and burlapped trees Under optimal conditions, burlap would be removed from the bottom of the trunk and the top of root ball

25. Synthetic burlap can cause problems These roots grew through this artificial burlap with little difficulty but, as the roots attempted to expand in diameter, they became girdled or strangled

26. Girdled roots Each of these roots is very easy to break off at the burlap because there is very little wood that developed through the burlap

27. Remove all synthetic burlap Synthetic burlap melts into a plastic goo while real burlap flames and turns to ash If burlap is synthetic, be sure to remove all of it with a pruner, knife or other sharp blade

28. Wire baskets There is no research documenting the detrimental effects of wire baskets on trees Baskets made from heavy gauge wire are often used to help keep a root ball intact during shipping and handling

29. Wire baskets Trees die for many reasons. Baskets have been found intact around dead trees. This does not necessarily mean the wire killed the tree.

30. Planting container trees

31. Slide tree from container

32. Circling roots – cut them

33. Slice circling roots

34. Find the top root

35. Top root at surface

36. Measure from top root to bottom of container

37. Set tree in the hole

38. Set too deep - add soil to bottom of hole

39. Outline of planting Look up for wires/lights Dig shallow/wide hole Find the top-most root Place tree in hole Position top root 1-2” above landscape soil Straighten tree Remove synthetic materials Add backfill soil and firm the root ball Add mulch to cover root ball sides Stake if needed Tree ready for mulch

40. Enlarge the hole Raise this root ball, add soil to the hole, and pack it with your foot Then, loosen soil with shovel to effectively enlarge hole diameter

41. Enlarging hole - loose soil

42. Finished creating loose soil

43. Soil over ball is not good

44. Water the backfill to settle

45. Prune to finish the job Remove broken branches Perform structural pruning if needed Do not prune to compensate for root lose

46. Cut into the backfill After filling the planting hole with backfill, slice a shovel into the soil 20 to 30 times to break up clayey soil and air pockets Pack lightly with your foot

47. Ready for mulch Two or three inches of the root ball should remain above ground after all the backfill soil is added This ensures the top-most root remains above ground, even if the root ball settles

48. Outline of planting Look up for wires/lights Dig shallow/wide hole Find the top-most root Place tree in hole Position top root 1-2” above landscape soil Straighten tree Remove synthetic materials Add backfill soil and firm the root ball Add mulch to cover root ball sides Stake if needed Tree ready for mulch

49. Mulching Apply a 3” thick layer of mulch to at least an eight- foot diameter circle Apply a thinner layer of mulch over the root ball, but keep it at least 10” from the trunk

50. Mulching Mulch as large an area as possible to allow the trees roots to expand without competition from turf roots

51. Improper mulching If turfgrass grows up to the trunk, trees often perform poorly Turf and weeds rob trees of moisture and nutrients and some produce chemicals that inhibit tree growth

52. Improper mulching Never pile mulch in a volcano-like manner against the trunk. This cuts off oxygen to roots, can rot the trunk, can keep vital irrigation and rain water out and can keep roots too wet in poorly drained soils

53. Synthetic mulch Synthetic mulch, in this case made from rubber, can be used as an organic mulch replacement in areas where organic mulch could blow or float away

54. Add a berm? When using a hose for irrigation, a 3” to 4” berm could be constructed at the edge of the root ball to prevent water from running off as seen here.

55. Soil berms Berms made from soil allow water to soak into the root ball but, unless covered with mulch, rainfall will quickly wash soil from the berm onto the root ball This could bury the roots too deep

56. Mulch your berm Prevent soil from being washed over the root ball by covering soil berms with a 3” to 4” layer of mulch or, most preferably, by constructing the berm entirely from mulch

57. Outline of planting Look up for wires/lights Dig shallow/wide hole Find the top-most root Place tree in hole Position top root 1-2” above landscape soil Straighten tree Remove synthetic materials Add backfill soil and firm the root ball Add mulch to cover root ball sides Stake if needed Tree ready for mulch

58. Traditional staking methods All these systems require removal within one year of planting Figure 1Figure 3Figure 2

59. Alternative staking methods These inexpensive alternative staking systems do not need to be removed because they simply decay in a few years Figure 4Figure 5

60. Proper planting detail

61. Inappropriate planting detail

62. Irrigating 2 inch trees 48 #25 container trees planted June 17, 2003 Mulch was applied 3 inches deep 5 gal. 3X weekly for 2 weeks 5 gal. 7/11; 1” rain 7/14; 5 gal. 7/18 No more irrigation Total 45 gal. water added + rain No dead trees

63. Irrigating 2 inch trees 105 #15 container trees planted Jan. 10 1995 No mulch was applied 2 gal. on 1/26, 1/31, 2/2, 2/11, 2/17, 2/24, 3/3, 3/31, 4/2, 5/9, 5/22, 6/3, 6/16 Total 40 gal. irrigation applied Three trees died

64. Is it volume or frequency? Its frequency! 4-inch hardened-off B&B trees planted May 26 1.5, 3, or 5 gals. per inch trunk caliper Volume did not matter, but frequency did

65. Irrigating 2.5 inch trees 84 hardened-off B&B trees planted Apr 15, 1997 28 gal. day 1 and 2; 5 gal. day 5; 15 gal. day 9; once weekly with 5 gal. for 5 weeks (101 gals. applied) Then no irrigation - 35 dead trees 84 B&B were irrigated twice weekly through Oct – no dead trees (176 gals. applied) So….. irrigate for at least three months

66. Planting landscape trees by Edward F. Gilman, professor Environmental Horticulture Department University of Florida http://hort.ufl.edu/woody/planting