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Published byMonica Potter Modified over 9 years ago
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Ocean Waves 6 th Grade
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Ocean Waves http://oceanexplorer.noaa.gov/edu/learning/ 9_ocean_waves/ocean_waves.html#slide http://oceanexplorer.noaa.gov/edu/learning/ 9_ocean_waves/ocean_waves.html#slide
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What is a GOOD wave definition: Wave: the movement of energy through a body of water Usually begins with WIND
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The SIZE of waves depend on what? Strength of the wind Length of time it blows Distance over which the wind blows
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Wave energy Surface water moves toward shore, but DEEP water doesn’t ENERGY of the deep wave moves to share, but the water remains in place
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Waves –circular motion
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What is Longshore Drift? As waves come into the shore, water washes up at the beach at an ANGLE, carrying the sand grains. The water and sand then run straight back down to the beach.
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Longshore Drift
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Groins are used to help control longshore drift
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Rip Currents: What are they and how do they occur? A rush of water that flows rapidly back to sea through a narrow opening As the sandbar grows, it traps the water flowing along the shore –water can break through the sandbar and flow back down to the ocean bottom
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Rip currents/tides https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8c7RJx5 pBg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8c7RJx5 pBg
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Rip Currents
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Rip Currents/Tides
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