1. PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY Waves GEOL 1033 (Lesson 30)

2. ANATOMY OF A PROGRESSIVE WAVE

3. V depends on wave properties V = L/P V depends on wave properties and water depth, so it is mathematically complex. Maximum V depends on water depth THREE TYPES OF PROGRESSIVE WAVES

4. STAGES OF WAVES 1) Sea – Waves in area effected by wind – Tend to be very irregular waves – Composed of many waves superimposed 2) Swell –Far from origin (=storm area) –Larger wavelength & period waves –Travel faster than smaller waves –Travel great distances (1000`s km) –Are deep-water waves 3) Surf –Nearshore where depth decreases to L/20 –Swells that shoal and break

5. FORMATION OF SURF WAVES

6. WAVE REFRACTION Note the bend of almost 90 degrees as the larger swell waves refract onshore (rocky Maili Point, Oahu, Hawaii). clouds

7. BEACH DRIFT & LONGSHORE CURRENT Refracting wave comes in at an angle and breaks –Swash moves grains & water obliquely up beach face –Backwash, being controlled by gravity, moves grains & water “straight” down slope of beach face –result = “zig-zag” movement of grains & water on beach face – Similar action – in surf zone – produces the – longshore – current Beach Drift Longshore Current

8. BEACH DRIFT Waves approaching obliquely along a gravelly shoreline set up a longshore current and beach drift. Sediment moves from left to right (toward the viewer) (East coast, Lake Michigan).

9. A TYPICAL BEACH PROFILE beach drift longshore current

10. LONGSHORE CURRENT Refracting, breaking waves approach shore obliquely –Lifting action under breakers as they pass over a spot Lifts Displaces obliquely (laterally) Drops more or less vertically –Moves grains and water along shore in a “zig-zag” manner lift up over down

11. The oblique approach of wave trains to a shoreline results in wave refraction and leads to the development of longshore currents, beach drift and other phenomena. Sediment is being transported toward the bottom left (Ringarooma Bay, Tasmania, Australia). beach drift longshore current

12. USE & EFFECTS OF GROINS & SEAWALLS

13. EFFECTS OF GROINS & JETTIES groinjetty groin jetties erosion deposition erosion

14. Rip-Rap to retard erosion affecting cemetary above

15. Second attempt at Rip-Rap to retard erosion affecting cemetary above

16. Groin being buries by updrift sands

17. A closer look at groin

18. EFFECTS OF BREAKWATERS

19. IRREGULAR, ROCKY COASTLINES Very irregular, rocky, cliffed shorelines do not have well- developed beach drift and a longshore current. Rocky coastline on an active continental margin. These folded rocks form high cliffs with only small pocket beaches. The extensive offshore rocks and irregular underwater topography preclude or greatly retard formation of longshore currents (Point Reyes, California).

20. ORIGIN OF TSUNAMIS Shallow-focus earthquakes –Primary cause –Especially associated with subduction zones of the margins of the Pacific Ocean Basin Volcanic Eruptions Landslides –Into water from land –Submarine landslides (=slumps) Man-made explosions –Nuclear bombs –WWI (1917) and WWII explosions in Halifax caused small tsunamis in the Halifax Harbour (about 1 m high) msl shelf slope SLUMP

21. PROCESSES OF TSUNAMI FORMATION

22. WHAT HAPPENS AT THE COASTLINE? At the coastline: –First, there is a great withdrawal of water –Water concentrates a short distance offshore –Then, water returns to shore as a high wave –H is commonly 10’s of feet high (possibly up to 200’) –Usually get 3 to 5 oscillations before reduction of H Before Withdrawal Surge

23. TSUNAMI WAVE CHARACTERISTICS Tsunamis are “shallow-water” type waves! –L = up to 100’s km, (~100 to 200 km common) –Ocean averages 3.8 km deep. H = relatively low out at sea, (typically 1 to 2 m) T = usually about 10 to 30 minutes V = up to 790 km/h, (~400 miles/h)

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