1. Fashion in History: A Global Look Tutor: Giorgio Riello Week 11 Tuesday 12 January 2010 4-5pm PRODUCING FASHION IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY: INDUSTRIES AND ARTISANS

2. Three Parts A. Changes in how Clothing was sold, c. 1750-1850 B. Changes in the production of textiles, c. 1770-1840 C. Changes in the manufacturing of clothing, c. 1840-1914

4. "High Change, Rag-Fair" : outdoor view of rag fair, High Change, Wellclose Square, Stepney. Guildhall Library, London

6. Uniform of an 18 th -century Russian Officer

8. Ready-mades were sold in large ‘warehouses’ (a warehouse in the 18 th -century is a large shop that sell at cheap prices) Example: Bromley’s “Linen and Shirt Warehouse” in Charing Cross in London advertised that: ‘Any Gentleman having and immediate Call for ready made Shirts may be supplied with any quantity from 5s 6d to 21 s.’ Tradecard, c. 1750

11. Advantages of ready made: 1.Allows for choice 2.Allows browsing 3.Allows shops to sell a variety of commodity, normally at cheap prices

15. 2. Mechanisation and Industrialisation in Textile Production

16. Petticoat and bodice. Produced in India.TAPI Collection, New Delhi, 05.12 Marie Antoinette en Chemise, 1783. Hessische Hausstiftung, Kronberg.

21. Fustian Jacket, c. 1630-60 said to have been presented by Charles II to Mary Grove. V&A

23. Spinning Jenny, invented by Hargreaves in 1767

24. Richard Arkwright and his water frame 1769

25. Model of the power Loom invented by Edmund Cartwright in 1785

26. Stocking Frame invented by William Lee, 1578

27. Jacquard loom invented in 1804, with punched cards

29. ‘The Development of the clothing industry… does not conform to traditional visions of the industrial revolution as a catalytic combination of entrepreneurial genius and sublime machines’ Michael Zakim, ‘A Ready-Made Business: The Birth of the Clothing Industry in America’, Business History Review, 73, 1 (1999), p. 65. 3. Clothing and Manufacturing

30. Isaac Merritt Singer (1811-1875)

31. Woman using a sewing machine, 1862, wood engraving entitled ‘Le Progres’, New York’, Science Museum, London, 1985-2094

33. Thomas Hood’s ‘The Song of the Shirt’ (1843)