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What causes ocean waves?
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Ocean Waves Ocean waves are caused by wind.
The air drags across the surface of the water and passes energy, causing waves
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Tsunami What causes a Tsunami?
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Tsunami A tsunami is caused by earthquakes, land slides and underwater volcanoes.
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Tsunami warning There are many buoys placed in the oceans to detect a rise in wave height. Seismographs detect earthquakes. If a seismograph detects seismic activity underwater a Tsunami warning is sent out
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Wave Parts Crest – the high point of the wave.
Trough – the low point of the wave Wave height – the distance between the crest and the trough. Wavelength – the distance between one wave crest and the next wave crest or one trough and the next trough.
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Wave Parts
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Breakers Wave bottom begins to drag on sea floor.
Bottom of wave slows down. Top of wave continues at same speed. Wave height grows. Wave falls over
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Longshore Current Where waves meet land at an angle.
Causes current parallel to the shore. Causes the beach sand to move down the shore. ( longshore drift)
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Rip Currents Occur where streams of water break through sandbars and drain rapidly back into the ocean. Occurs where wind pushes water back from shore.
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Quiz 1. A wave is moving a) Sand b) Water c) Energy d) Air
2.Surface waves are caused by a) Fish b) Wind c) Boats d) Earthquakes
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Quiz 3. Waves that begin underwater may be caused by a) Fish b) Earthquakes c) Wind d) Boats 4. A wave that falls over and forms white caps is called a) Breaker b) Surfer c) Tsunami d) None of the above
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Quiz 5. A buoy is something that a) Lives underwater b) Sinks c) Measures waves d ) Floats 6. What does the word "marine" mean in the phrase "marine creatures?" a) Blue b) Animals that live near the water c) A branch of the armed forces d) Animals that live in the water
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Quiz 7. Name the two main types of waves.
8. What do you think scientists will have to learn more about before they can predict a tsunami?
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