1. Natural Hair Natural hair is composed of 3 yellow 2 red 1 blue

2. Stages of Lift u Red u Red Orange u Orange u Gold u Yellow u Pale Yellow

3. Formulation u To determine your level of color –desired color x 2 –minus your natural level –equals your processing level u Level above 10 –volume of peroxide t 10 - 20 - 30 - 40

4. School of Thought u Color - lift and deposit u Color will not lift color u Level 1 –all deposit, no lift u Level 5 –approximately 1/2 lift & 1/2 deposit u Level 9 –mostly lift, with some deposit

5. Factors to Consider u Condition of hair u Underlying pigment –warm or cool –undertones, dominant or underlying pigment u Desired color –deposit no lift –lift & deposit –mostly lift, some deposit

6. Lift u Maximum lift –20 vol. t 4 levels –over 4 levels requires bleach or HL series

7. Peroxides u Developers - Oxidizer u Purpose –opens cuticle –allowing color into the cortex –oxidation t molecules enlarge t become trapped

8. Strengths of Peroxide u 5 volume –has to be made –used in filler formulas –pretreating gray hair –safest volume to use on chemically relaxed hair

9. Peroxide u 10 vol –deposit only –no lift –used on severely damaged hair –highest vol. for chemically relaxed hair –low lighting

10. Peroxide u 20 vol –needed to open cuticle –average strength –lift & deposit –coloring hair same level –used to lift 1 to 2 levels

11. Peroxide u 30 vol. –medium amount lift –2 to 3 levels u 40 vol. –lift only –3 to 4 levels –used w/ HL tints

12. Info u Strand test –formulation –processing time –prevents corrective color / loss of $$$$ u Color lifts & deposits –oxidation –do not mix until ready for application

13. Info u Sensitive scalp –add pink packet of sugar substitute –color or bleach –contains anti-inflammatory u Porosity –most important factor –determines level depth, strength, application, timing

14. Info u Developer & color usually mixed in equal parts u 2 to 1 –double peroxide to color u Application –brush or bottle

15. Info u Application begins –most resistant area –gray hair –hot spots