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Textiles Natural Manufactured
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Fibers Basic Unit of all Textile Products- tiny hair like.
All fibers have their own characteristics and properties, depending upon their source, chemical composition, and quality. No fiber is perfect. Each has some good, fair, and poor qualities that may make it suitable or unsuitable for certain uses.
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Fibers con’t The basic characteristics of a fiber can be slightly altered but never totally changed. The fiber may be short, long, straight, or curly. These fiber characteristics greatly affect the appearance, and performance of the fabrics they are made into. The Characteristics you look for in children’s clothing are totally different that you would look for in evening wear for yourself. Thus a good understanding of fibers, yarns, and fabrics if basic to the study of apparel.
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Fiber Sources Natural- occurs naturally in nature
Cellulosic Fibers and Protein Fibers Manufactured- is made from chemicals or natural fibers that are chemically changed Cellulosic and Synthetic
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Fiber Sources Natural- Plant or Animal fiber that grow in nature.
Two categories: Cellulosic Fibers (plant)- Include: Cotton, Linen (hemp), Ramie, Jute, Bamboo Protein Fibers (animal) Include: Wool, Silk, Leather
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Fiber Sources Manufactured- 2 Categories Cellulosic Synthetic-
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Manufactured- Cellulosic
Cellulosic- Made from a Natural material called Cellulose. The cellulose is turned into a liquid and poured through a spinneret. Includes: Acetate, Rayon, Triacetate, Lyocell.
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Fiber Sources (con’t) Manufactured Non-cellulosic (may be called “Synthetic”- Made from chemicals, petroleum, coal, and natural gas. All of these fibers are manufactured from different combinations of petroleum, natural gas, air and water. They are poured through a spinneret. Include: Acrylic, Polyester, Nylon, Modacrylic, Spandex, and Olefin.
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Natural Fibers General Characteristics
Absorbent Breathable- porous fibers Biodegradable Most Wrinkle, some exceptions Often very luxurious, and more expensive than Manufactured Fibers
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Fiber Structures Staple Fibers- Short & Fuzzy- Usually between 1” and 4” long. These tiny fibers already exist in a plant or animal. The fibers just need to be cleaned up, sorted, and purified before they are used for fabrics. Short Look lumpy and bumpy under a microscope Include all natural fibers, except silk
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Fiber Structures (con’t)
Filament Fibers- Long and smooth (like fishing line) Include all manufactured fibers Include Silk Manufactured Fibers can be cut to a staple length to create a fabric that is like a natural fiber
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Spinneret All man-made and Synthetic fibers are poured through a Spinneret to create the fiber.
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Manufactured Fibers General Characteristics
Low absorbency Non-breathable Wrinkle resistant Usually less expensive Heat Sensitive
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Manufactured Fibers- Cellulosic
Acetate Lyocell (Tencel®) Rayon
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Manufactured Cellulosic Fibers
Made from a natural material called “cellulose.” Found in the plant wall of different plants. General Characteristics Breathable Wrinkle Heat Sensitive Absorbent
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Acetate Advantages Soft Drapeable Dries quickly Resistant to shrinking
Absorbent Dyes in beautiful colors Often used as a blend
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Acetate Disadvantages
Wrinkles easily Low abrasion resistance Heat sensitive Damaged by acetone
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Acetate- care Some fabrics will be washable, but many will be “dry clean only.”
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Acetate- Clothing/Fashion uses
Skirts Blouses Dresses Scarves Linings
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Acetate - Fabrics Taffeta Satin Linings Slinky
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Rayon advantages Soft and comfortable High moisture absorbency
Drapeable Frequently Blended Good Wickability Dyes Well
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Rayon disadvantages May wrinkle or shrink unless treated May mildew
Colors will fade Quality & price vary Some types will water spot
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Care of Rayon Dry cleaned or washable (see label)
Iron at low temperature
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Rayon- Clothing/Fashion uses
Dresses Shirts Blouses Skirts Pants
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Lyocel advantages Breathable Soft and comfortable
Drapes well- heavier than Rayon Dull finish Absorbent Strong Made to look like silk, cotton, linen, or wool
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Lyocel disadvantages Expensive Stretches in length & width
Damaged with hot iron
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Care of Lyocel Washable Dry Clean Low Iron
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Clothing/Fashion uses
Dresses Skirts Lingerie Shirts Pants
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Non-Cellulosic (Synthetic Fibers
Acrylic Nylon Polyester Spandex (Lycra) Aramid (Kevlar, Nomex) Olefin Triacetate Modacrylic
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Synthetic Fibers All are made from Petrochemicals
General Characteristics - Resist Abrasion - Resist Wrinkling - Heat Sensitive - Not absorbent
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Acrylic
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Acrylic Advantages Soft Warm – High Bulking Power
Wool-like without the weight Light weight Wrinkle resistant Resistant to moths and sunlight Affordable Sunlight resistant
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Acrylic Disadvantages
Pills Non-absorbent Static electricity Heat sensitive Holds oil based stains
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Care of Acrylic Dry Cleaned or laundered Iron at low temperature
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Acrylic-Clothing/Fashion uses
Sweaters Knit garments Faux Fur Coats Pants Skirts Shoe soles
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Nylon Introduced in 1939 as the “miracle fiber.”
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Nylon Advantages Very Strong* Resilient Lustrous- nice sheen
Dries quickly Water, wind resistant Affordable Lightweight
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Nylon disadvantages May yellow or gray Heat Sensitive
Low moisture absorbency Pills
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Care of Nylon Easily laundered Iron at low temperature
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Nylon- Clothing/Fashion uses
Sportswear Jackets Raincoats Lingerie Backpacks Purses
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Polyester One of the most widely used Manufactured fibers in the world. Made into many different fabrics because it is so versatile. Frequently blended to make the fabric more easy care.
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Polyester advantages Excellent WRINKLE RESISTANCE
Resistant to abrasion- strong Dries quickly Blends well with other fibers Retains heat-set pleats and creases
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Polyester disadvantages
Absorbs oily stains Low absorbency of moisture Does not crease easily Static Cling
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Care of Polyester Easily laundered Needs little or no pressing
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Polyester Clothing/Fashion uses
Pants Shirts Suits Sportswear Skirts
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Polyester Fabrics Satin Taffeta Denim Tweed Chiffon Broadcloth Crepe
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Spandex advantages Excellent elasticity and recovery
Stronger and more durable than rubber Light weight Resistant to body oils Used for one reason: “Stretch” *Spandex is always blended with other fibers.
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Spandex disadvantages
Damaged by chlorine bleach Damaged by heat Does not Dye Well
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Clothing/Fashion uses
Pants Shirts Jeans Sportswear Underwear Socks Bras Tights
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Fabric Blends Cotton / Polyester – Why? Cotton / Spandex – Why?
Wool / Acrylic – Why? Cotton / Linen – Why? Polyester / Silk – Why? Nylon / Spandex – Why?
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Aramid (Kevlar & Nomex) advantages
Exceptional strength Exceptional heat and flame resistance Resistant to stretch and abrasion
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Aramid disadvantages Not absorbent
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Clothing/Fashion uses
Kevlar Bullet Proof Vests Cut/Heat and Chemical resistant Gloves Nomex Fireman Uniforms Racing Apparel
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Resources: http://www.elann.com/Commerce.Web/fibre_facts.aspx
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