1. OCN 5401 Chapter 11 Coastal Ocean Instructor: Dr. George A. Maul gmaul@fit.edu / X 7453

2. Earth’s Estuaries

3. Estuary Classifications KnaussNybakkenSumichKennett Salt WedgeCoastal Plain Salt Wedge Partially MixedTectonicBar BuiltPartially Mixed Well MixedFjordDeltaLagoon NegativeDelta

4. Estuaries and Inlets

5. Estuarine Issues

6. Mixing Richardson Number R i < 0.25 internal shear waves develop

7. Residence Time (t) and Sebastian Inlet

8. Coastal Ocean Observing System

9. Coasts and Beaches A healthy coral reef creates sand for healthy beaches

10. Beach Terminology and Sand D(mm)Wentworth GradePhi >256Boulder-8 >64Cobble-6 >4Pebble-2 >1Very course sand0 >1/2Course sand1 >1/4Medium sand2 >1/8Fine sand3

11. Beach Sand Erosion and Accretion Short period wind waves (T<7 seconds) Long period swell waves (T>9 seconds)

12. Classification of River Deltas Brazos River Delta Ganges River Delta

13. Amazon Delta 6300 km 3 /year ~ 1/150 of Gulf Stream

14. The drainage basin of the Mississippi River encompasses a major portion of the central United States. How much is this??

15. The Mississippi River has built a series of overlapping subdeltas as it continually dumps sediment into the Gulf of Mexico.

16. Satellite Imagery of the Classical Birdsfoot Delta at the mouth of the Mississippi River Mississippi River entering Gulf of Mexico - Note the color contrast. (Picture from John Trefry)

17. Changes in sediment composition along the Nile River

18. Nile Delta Sediments Denial is not a river in Egypt Photograph False color Image

19. Semi-Enclosed Seas Intra-Americas Sea

20. Intra-Americas Sea SSH http://www7320.nrlssc.navy.mil/GLBhycom1-12/navo/intramssh_nowcast_anim365d.gif http://www7320.nrlssc.navy.mil/GLBhycom1-12/navo/intramssh_nowcast_anim365d.gif

21. Lakes – The Aral Sea

22. Artificial Lakes Lake Nasser

23. Coastal Ocean of the Southeastern United States

24. OCN 5401 Questions? Chapter 11