1. Setting hair Chapter 10 Setting and dressing hair

2. Setting and dressing hair
At the end of this session you will have learned the following:
Identify the different tools and equipment available to set and dress hair.
Consider the suitable styling and finishing products for setting and dressing hair.
Explain the importance of a consultation for setting and dressing hair.
Identify the different setting techniques and the purposes of each method.
Investigate how to dressing out set to meet the client requirements.
Refer to textbook, Chapter 10

3. Setting and dressing hair (cont.)
‘The ability to set and dress hair is a valuable part of your skill as a hairdresser.’ The techniques used within setting and dressing underpin virtually all the hairstyling disciplines.

4. Tools and equipment for setting hair
Setting rollers – used to create curl waves and give shape to the hair.
Velcro rollers – used on dry hair to create softer, curl waves and shape.
Heated rollers – used on dry hair to create softer shape and to refresh style.
Tail or pin comb – used for making the sections for the rollers and for dressing out the set.
Straight combs – used for dressing out and backcombing.
Wide toothed combs – general combing, disentangling and dressing out.
Refer to textbook, Chapter 10, pages 3–10

5. Tools and equipment for setting hair (cont.)
Hair pins – used to hold the rollers in place.
Pin clips – used to hold hair in place when forming pin curls.
Sectioning clips – used to keep hair under control .
Hair nets – used to keep rollers in place when drying.
Ear protectors – used to protect the ears from the heat of the dryer.
Flat Brush – a brush with bristles used to prepare the hair for shampooing and dressing out.
Refer to textbook, Chapter 10, pages 3–10

6. Other tools and equipment
Complete Interactive quiz
Lift pick comb – can be used for dressing and backcombing.
Jumbo comb – can be used for conditioning detangling and dressing.
‘Denman’ brush – used in blow-drying (not recommended for general brushing).
Vent brush – used in blow-drying hair straight.
Paddle brush – used for blow-drying.
Radial brushes – used in blow-drying for firm waves volume and curl.
Diffuser – for ‘soft drying’ scrunch drying with movement or texture.
Refer to textbook, Chapter 10, pages 3–10

7. Styling & finishing products for setting hair
Refer to textbook, Chapter 10, pages 10–11
When setting and dressing hair a variety of styling products is available to add hold and shape, repel moisture, protect from the sun, or add shine and lustre.
Setting lotions – mousse and liquid used to add hold and repel moisture.
Finishing products – add shine and lustre, remove static, hold finished shape (hair spray). Waxed based products used to define shape, etc. not usually used in setting and dressing
Heat protection – a group of products that can protect against the effect of sunlight and can be used to protect the hair against the effects of heat styling.

8. Setting & dressing hair
Keywords
Temporary bonds
The hydrogen bonds within the hair that are modified and fix the style into shape.
Hygroscopic
Readily absorbing moisture from the atmosphere.
Alpha keratin
Hair in its natural state.
Beta keratin
Hair in its moulded shape, i.e. curly hair that has been dried straight. When the client enters a damp environment the hair reverts back to the alpha state
Refer to textbook, Chapter 10, pages 16, 27–28

9. Alpha and beta keratin
The keratin bonds of un-stretched hair are in the alpha keratin state.
When the hair is wet it can stretch.
The hydrogen bonds will break while the others stretch.
When the hair is held in a new position and dried it stays in that position, as the hydrogen bonds reform this is called the beta keratin state.
When the hair is wet the keratin returns to the alpha state.
Refer to textbook, Chapter 10, pages 16, 27–28

10. Setting and dressing hair
As with all hairdressing services, the first and key part is CONSULTATION.
Prepare the client (gown and towels).
What does the client want (service, style, etc.)?
Decide hair texture, type and condition.
What is the length of the hair and how has it been cut (layers all one length, etc.)?
Determine face shape (oval, round, square, etc.).
Lifestyle limiting factors (body shape, clothes, occupation, etc.).
Look for adverse hair and scalp conditions.
Refer to textbook, Chapter 6 for more information.

11. Setting and dressing hair (cont.)
Use the analysis to decide on possible styles to recommend to the client:
Make sure the possible styles meet the client’s requirements.
Decide on any styling products that may be required or would improve the finished result.
Discuss with client and include costs, time, etc.
Agree and confirm what you going to do with the client.
Decide the tools and equipment you will need to fulfil the agreed plan.
During this process decide on type of shampoo and conditioner to be used.

12. Setting and dressing hair (cont.)
When the shampoo and conditioning (if required) has been carried out:
Check the gown and towels are still in place.
Comb the hair in the direction that reflects the chosen style.
Section the hair (the size of the section will be influenced by the rollers being used).
The rollers should be positioned according to the plan to achieve the shape required.
Make sure the rollers are not too tight and that the pins are not touching the scalp.
Place a setting net over the rollers and ear protectors over the ears.
Refer to textbook, Chapter 10, page 18

13. Setting and dressing hair (cont.)
Principles of roller setting
Small rollers produce tight curls and waves.
Large rollers produce soft curls and loose waves.
The length of the hair affects the curl strength and wave movement.
Fine hair will often curl more easily.
Coarse hair may not curl easily.
The section of hair used should not be longer or wider than the roller being used.
The roller should sit neatly on its own section (this will produce good lift and an even wave or curl). If a flat effect is required then the roller should be ‘dragged’.
If the hair is twisted when putting in the roller the wave or curl will be distorted.
Refer to textbook, Chapter 10, pages 17–18

14. Planning the set
The placement of the rollers will be determined by the style and shape you want the hair to be in when finished.
The size of the rollers will be determined by the strength of the wave/curl movement required and the length and texture of the hair.
The tension on the hair when the rollers are put in should be even and moderate.
Sitting the roller on it own section is important to ensure that good root lift is achieved. Dragging the roller should only be carried out when less root lift is required.
Each head will need different numbers of rollers; use enough to do it properly. The fewer rollers used will decrease the life of the set and give uneven wave/curl movements.
You should always be able to see and describe how the finished style will look by the pattern of the rollers.

15. Setting and dressing hair
Remember If you are not sure which size roller to use, go for the smaller. If necessary you can brush out and stretch too tightly curled hair later. Loosely curled hair will drop more readily, so you may not achieve the style you are aiming for. Rollers not secured properly on base, either dragged or flattened, will not produce lift and volume in the final style. Too large a hair section will produce reduced movement in the final effect.
Refer to textbook, Chapter 10, page 22

16. Setting and dressing hair (cont.)
Too small a hair section will produce increased movement or curl in the final effect.
Longer hair requires larger rollers unless tighter effects are wanted.
Poorly positioned hair falling off the sides of the roller will affect the curl required.
Incorrectly wound hair around the roller will create ‘fish hook’ ends.
Twisted hair around the roller will distort the final movement of the style.
Refer to textbook, Chapter 10, page 22

17. Principles of roller setting
Rollers ‘sitting’ neatly on their
own section.
Rollers positioned to create a
style. This is called hair
‘en pli’.
Refer to textbook, Chapter 10, pages 17–21

18. Pin curling
Refer to textbook, Chapter 10, pages 22–25
Pin curling is a method of winding the hair with the fingers and securing it with clips to hold in place for drying.
There are five basic types, each used for a different effect:
Barrel spring curls – produce strong wave movements in the hair.
Stand-up barrel spring curls – produce strong deeper wave movements with raised crests.
Stem curls – produce wave movements with a flat softer root direction.
Clock spring curls – produce ‘ringlet’ effects with a tight curl at the points and softer curl at the root.
Barrel curls – produce the same effect as rollers often used when a section is too small for a roller.
Refer to video clip of pin curling hair
Complete Activity 1 Pin curling

19. Pin curling
Refer to textbook, Chapter 10, pages 22–25
Pincurls can be used to achieve a variety of effects on their own or when used in conjunction with rollers.
When made in rows that alternate in direction of wind (clockwise and anti-clockwise) they produce a waved finish. Barrel spring curls will be quite flat, stand-up curls will produce a deep waved effect.
Can be used in the nape area to produce flat curls and good where hair is too short for rollers and needs curl.
Clock spring curls can be used around the hairline to produce ‘ringlet’ effect that soften the hairline, often used when long hair is being ‘put up’.
Barrel curls can used instead of rollers: they produce the same effects very useful if there is a section of hair that is not the right shape or is too small for a roller.
Stem curls are useful for the area around the ear to give a flat soft movement at the root area and finished with a slightly stronger curl at the point.

20. Types of pin curl
A barrel spring curl A stem curl Stand-up pin curls A barrel curl
Refer to textbook, Chapter 10, pages 22–25

21. Drying the set
Refer to textbook, Chapter 10, pages 27–28
Drying hair that has been set is a straightforward process but there are important points to remember when doing so.
The hair is normally dried under a hood dryer.
Make sure the dryer is already on when you put the client ‘under’ it (remember that when the hair is wet the client will feel colder).
Make sure the client is comfortable and the dryer is covering ALL of the rollers.
Make sure the dryer is set at the right temperature and if the dryer has a client operated temperature switch give it to the client.
Drying time will vary from 15 mins for fine hair to 45 mins for long hair: average is around 25–30 mins.

22. Drying the set (cont.)
Remember to check on the client from time to time to make sure everything is OK.
When drying has finished, check that the hair is dry: do this carefully (the hair should ‘spring back’ into the shape of the roller).
Before removing the rollers and clips leave the hair to cool, this will make sure the process is complete.
The hair is ready to be ‘dressed out’.
Refer to textbook, Chapter 10, pages 27–28

23. Dressing out
Dressing is the process of achieving the finish to the hair. It ‘blends’ the hair into the movement and shape determined by the roller pattern.
Dressing requires the use of brushing and combing techniques.
If the set has been done properly the amount of brushing and combing should be minimal.
The process
Using a soft bristle brush, brush the hair to remove the set marks and partings brush in the direction of the required shape. The hair can be ‘double brushed’: a technique of using two bristle brushes in a ‘rolling’ movement for the same effect (should not be done on fine or weak damaged hair).
Backbrushing and backcombing are used to add lift and volume, it is used when a more gentle lift and blend. Backcombing is used to give strong lift and blend (particularly useful when putting hair up).
Refer to textbook, Chapter 10, pages 29–32
Complete Activity 2 Dressing out hait

24. Dressing out The process
Backbrushing and backcombing are used to add lift and volume. Backbrushing is used for a more gentle lift and blend. Backcombing is used to give strong lift and blend (particularly useful when putting hair up).
A comb is used to apply the final finish to the hair.
A ‘dressing’ comb with wide and narrow teeth, a tail comb or a ‘lift pick’ comb can be used.
Finishing products should be used when appropriate, some will be applied after the initial brushing, or after dressing is completed.
Remember when using hair spray to protect the client’s face.
Use the back mirror to show the client the back of their head.
Refer to textbook, Chapter 10, pages 29–32

25. Setting and dressing hair
Revisit lesson aims:
Identify the different tools and equipment available to set and dress hair.
Consider the suitable styling and finishing products for setting and dressing hair.
Investigate the terms alpha and beta keratin
Explain the importance of a consultation for setting and dressing hair
Identify the different setting techniques and the purposes of each method.
Investigate how to dressing out set to meet the client requirements
Carry out Test your knowledge quiz
Refer to textbook, Chapter 10, pages 3–23