1. Fig. 10-CO, p. 264

2. Fig. 10-1, p. 266

3. Wave direction Wave

4. Fig. 10-1, p. 266 Wave direction Wave Stepped Art

5. Fig. 10-2, p. 266

6. Direction of wave motion AB Wavelength Height Still water level Crest Trough Frequency: Number of wave crests passing point A or point B each second Orbital path of individual water molecule at water surface Period: Time required for wave crest at point A to reach point B

7. Fig. 10-3, p. 267

8. Direction of wave motion Wave-length Still water level Crest Trough Crest 1/2 wave- length depth

9. Fig. 10-4, p. 267

10. Stokes drift (mass transport) No mass transport Wave Closed orbit after one period Open orbit after one period

11. Table 10-1, p. 268

12. Fig. 10-5, p. 269

13. Seismic disruption Disturbing force landslides GravityWind Restoring force Gravity Surface tension Type of wave TideTsunamiSeicheWind wave Capillary wave (ripple) 24 hr. Amount of energy in ocean surface 100,000 sec (1 1/4 days) 10,000 sec (3 hr) 1,000 sec (17 min) 100 sec10 sec1 sec1/10 sec1/100 sec Period (time, in seconds for two successive wave crests to pass a fixed point) 110100 Frequency (waves per second) 12 hr.

14. Fig. 10-6, p. 269

15. Fig. 10-7, p. 270

16. 30.6 Wavelength (m) 0100200300400500600 27.8 18 17 62 25.0 15 22.2 11 14 13 16 50 9 12 37 19.4 16.6 11.0 5.6 4 13 8.4 3 5 7 Speed (mph) Period (in seconds) 25 13.8 Speed (m/sec) 2.8 0.0 1 0 2 Wavelength (ft) 0328656984 1,312 1,640 1,968 10 8 6

17. Fig. 10-8, p. 271

18. Wind b a Sea surface Maximum wavelength 1.73 cm (0.68 in.)

19. Fig. 10-9, p. 271

20. Fig. 10-10, p. 272

21. 5432 1 65432 1 65432 76543 76543 7654 8765 876 5

22. Stepped Art 76543 65432 876 5 8765 76543 5432 1 7654 65432 1

23. Fig. 10-11, p. 273

24. Fully developed seas Changing to swell Ripples to chop to wind waves Direction of wave advance Wind Length of fetch

25. Table 10-2, p. 273

26. Fig. 10-12, p. 274

27. Fig. 10-13, p. 274

28. Fig. 10-14, p. 275

29. 7 across 1 high 120°

30. Fig. 10-15, p. 275

31. 12 a b Constructive interference (addition) Destructive interference (subtraction) Constructive interference (addition)

32. Fig. 10-16, p. 276

33. Fig. 10-17, p. 277

34. 1 2 4 5 3 Depth = 1/2 wavelength Surf zone

35. Box 10-1, p. 278

36. Fig. 10-18a, p. 279

37. Fig. 10-18b, p. 279

38. Fig. 10-19a, p. 279

39. Direction of progress Wave crests Waves begin to "feel bottom" here, water depth is L/2. Bottom contours Shoreline

40. Fig. 10-19b, p. 279

41. Fig. 10-20a, p. 280

42. Fig. 10-20b, p. 280

43. Waves A and B create a checkerboard of peaks and troughs A B

44. Fig. 10-21, p. 280

45. Fig. 10-22, p. 280

46. (Every tenth wave crest shown) 0 10 Waves moving 20 30 Islands Areas of wave crest reinforcement due to diffraction and interference

47. Fig. 10-23, p. 281

48. Fig. 10-23a, p. 281 Node Crest Node Crest Trough No motion Maximum water flow No motion 1 23

49. Fig. 10-23b, p. 281 Node Crest Trough Maximum water flow No motion Trough 45 Starts again at 2

50. Fig. 10-24a, p. 282

51. Wind waves on surface Less dense water Pycnocline Internal wave crest Denser water

52. Fig. 10-24b, p. 282

53. Fig. 10-24c, p. 282

54. Fig. 10-25a, p. 283

55. CCW spin Direction of storm and storm surge Low atmospheric pressure Dome of water

56. Low atmospheric pressure CCW spin Direction of storm and storm surge Stepped Art Fig. 10-25a, p. 283

57. Fig. 10-25b, p. 283

58. Fig. 10-26a, p. 284

59. Fig. 10-26b, p. 284

60. Fig. 10-27a, p. 285

61. Fig. 10-27b, p. 285

62. 176 175 Buffalo 174 173 Toledo 172 Lake Erie water level (meters above sea level) 171 12:00 0:00 12:00 0:00 12:00 0:00 12:00 12 November13 November14 November15 November b Date 0:00

63. Fig. 10-28, p. 286

64. Fig. 10-29a, p. 287

65. Fig. 10-29b, p. 287

66. Fig. 10-29c, p. 287

67. Fig. 10-29d, p. 287

68. Fig. 10-29e, p. 287

69. Fig. 10-30, p. 288

70. Fig. 10-31, p. 288

71. Fig. 10-32a, p. 289

72. Fig. 10-32b, p. 289

73. Fig. 10-32c, p. 289

74. Fig. 10-33, p. 290

75. Fig. 10-34, p. 290

76. November 14, 1994 Mindoro Island Maximum wave: 7 m Fatalities: 49 July 12, 1993 Okushiri, Japan Maximum wave: 31 m Fatalities: 239 October 9, 1995 Jalisco, Mexico Maximum wave: 11 m Fatalities: 1 January 1, 1996 Sulawesi Island Maximum wave: 3.4 m Fatalities: 9 February 17, 1996 Irian Jaya Maximum wave: 7.7 m Fatalities: 161 September 2, 1992 Nicaragua Maximum wave: 10 m Fatalities: 170 December 12, 1992 Flores Island Maximum wave: 26 m Fatalities: >1,000 July 17, 1998 Papua New Guinea Maximum wave: 15 m Fatalities: >2,200 June 2, 1994 East Java Maximum wave: 14 m Fatalities: 238 December 26, 2004 Indonesia and vicinity Maximum wave: 35 m Fatalities: >176,000 February 21, 1996 North coast of Peru Maximum wave: 5 m Fatalities: 12

77. Fig. 10-35, p. 291

78. Fig. 10-36a, p. 292

79. Fig. 10-36b, p. 292

80. Fig. 10-36c, p. 292

81. Fig. 10-37, p. 293

82. GOES Satellite Transducers Signal flag Acoustic telemetry Glass ball flotation ~6000 m Transducer Bottom pressure recorder Sensor anchor Anchor

83. Table 10-3, p. 293