1. LIFE12 ENV/IT/352 Life Cycle Assessment of naturalised dyes and their comparison with commercial dyes. Alessandra Zamagni BIONAD 24 Month Meeting January 27th, 2016, UNIFI Premises, Florence (I)

2. Action on Life Cycle Assessment BIONAD 24 Month Meeting January 27th, 2016, UNIFI Premises, Florence (I) Purposes:  To assess the environmental profile of the naturalized dyes  To compare the naturalized dyes with the commercial ones. Method:  Life Cycle Assessment (LCA), according to: o ISO 14040 and 14044 o Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) guide (2013/179/EU)* o Most up-to-date position papers on methodological issues in PEF (developed within the EU ongoing pilots) o PCR “Tanning chemicals” 2015:09 (valid until 2019-12-14) (UN CPC 343: Tanning of dyeing extract; tannins and their derivatives; colouring matter) * Commission Recommendation of 9 April 2013 on the use of common methods to measure and communicate the life cycle environmental performance of products and organisations LIFE12 ENV/IT/352

3. Life Cycle Assessment BIONAD 24 Month Meeting January 27th, 2016, UNIFI Premises, Florence (I)  LCA is a technique for the systematic evaluation of the environmental aspects of a product or service system through all stages of its life cycle  The only standardised method to quantify a broad range of environmental impact categories  It provides scientific and quantitative information to identify/prevent environmental burdens shifting among the different phases of the life cycle, and the different impact categories  It allows for a comparative assessment between different product/services/systems performing the same function  Detailed approach: the contribution to the different impact categories of each elementary flows, of each unit processes, is accounted for  It supports optimisation processes whenever a trade off exist.

4. LIFE12 ENV/IT/352 LCA – The European context BIONAD 24 Month Meeting January 27th, 2016, UNIFI Premises, Florence (I)  LCA and life cycle thinking are at the core of the environmental European policies and strategies: o Resource Efficiency Roadmap (2011) o Single Market for Green Products Initiatives (April 2013) Commission recommendations on the use of common methods to measure and communicate life cycle environmental performance of products and organisations (Product Environmental Footprint – PEF; Organisation Environmental Footprint – OEF)  COMMUNICATION FROM THE COMMISSION TO THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT, THE COUNCIL, THE EUROPEAN ECONOMIC AND SOCIAL COMMITTEE AND THE COMMITTEE OF THE REGIONS Towards a circular economy: A zero waste programme for Europe. /* COM/2014/0398 final/2 */  Pilot test on PEF (2013 – 2016): o Leather (semi-processed or finished product), proposed by the Confederation of National Associations of Tanners and Dressers of the European Community (COTANCE); o Opportunity for BIONAD consortium to contribute to the development of PCR for the leather, with specific contribution on dyes.

5. LIFE12 ENV/IT/352 The LCA framework BIONAD 24 Month Meeting January 27th, 2016, UNIFI Premises, Florence (I) Goal & Scope Definition Definition of the purpose and intended application of the study. Inventory Analysis Compilation and quantification of inputs and outputs through the life cycle. Impact Assessment Identification and evaluation of the magnitudes and relative importance of the environmental impacts arising from the inventory analysis. Interpretation The results are checked and evaluated to confirm that they are consistent with the goal of the study. Life cycle assessment framework Interpretation Goal definition Scope definition Inventory analysis Impact assessment Direct applications: Product development and improvement Strategic planning Public policy making Marketing Other From ISO 14044:2006, modified plus Documentation, Review

6. LIFE12 ENV/IT/352 Goal and scope definition BIONAD 24 Month Meeting January 27th, 2016, UNIFI Premises, Florence (I)  Determine objectives o Why is LCA being conducted?  Define the target audience o Who should use the results?  Define product/service under study and its alternatives o What is its function? o What is an appropriate functional unit?  Choose system boundaries o What inputs and outputs will be studied? o How will data be collected?  Define relevant impact categories  Data quality requirements  Critical review

7. LIFE12 ENV/IT/352 Goal and scope definition in BIONAD BIONAD 24 Month Meeting January 27th, 2016, UNIFI Premises, Florence (I)  Objectives: o To assess the environmental profile of the naturalised dyes o To compare the naturalised dyes with the commercial ones (1 substance vs formulation)  Target audience: o CNR-ICCOM, project partners, LIFE+ Project Officer  Functional unit: o the coloring at pre-industrial level of 200 kg of leather, meeting the applicable standard requirements (same quantity of dye for both naturalised and commercial one).  Environmental impact categories:  15 environmental impact categories, as recommended in PEF  Project-specific indicators (e.g., water consumption, waste water treatment, energy consumption Main assumption: upstream and downstream processes of leather treatment do not change. Co-product

8. LIFE12 ENV/IT/352 System boundary BIONAD 24 Month Meeting January 27th, 2016, UNIFI Premises, Florence (I) CHEMICAL Not included  Equipment, buildings and other capital goods  Research and development activities

9. LIFE12 ENV/IT/352 Life Cycle Inventory BIONAD 24 Month Meeting January 27th, 2016, UNIFI Premises, Florence (I)  Milk serum: co-product (no zero burden)  Same dose applied for naturalised and commercial dyes  Composition of the dyes compared:  Waste water treatment: o data on key parameters from INESCOP o Check the possibility to use the analysis on element contents (contamination) for adjusting the waste water treatment process  Scale for the assessment: kilo-scale, 30l reactor, 2 kg of product NATURALISED DYE% (PER KG OF LEATHER TREATED) Purified chromophore 50% Milk serum50% COMMERCIAL DYE% (PER KG OF LEATHER TREATED) Commercial chromophore 20-40% Additives80-60% To be clearly identified:  Inorganic salts (sodium sulphate)  Surfactant/Vehicle

10. LIFE12 ENV/IT/352 Chemicals in LCA BIONAD 24 Month Meeting January 27th, 2016, UNIFI Premises, Florence (I)  Life cycle data on chemicals are a challenging aspect for carrying out the LCA study o Primary data from processes collected during the tests of the process o Generic data from databases and other sources will be used for background processes  Due to the vast number of chemicals in production and the problem of data confidentiality, data on chemicals are not always available  Approaches have been proposed to overcome this problem: o development of models which provide estimates for inventory data of chemical production based on the molecular structure of a chemical (Wernet et al. 2008). These models can also be used for estimating the impact factors (so far tested only for cumulative energy demand); o support of the experts for developing a representative and robust dataset, starting from a proxy available in literature and tailoring it to the specific production processes Preferred approach in BIONAD, thanks to the expertise available in the consortium

11. LIFE12 ENV/IT/352 Proposal for dealing with chemicals in the study BIONAD 24 Month Meeting January 27th, 2016, UNIFI Premises, Florence (I)  All chemical materials, not containing components subject to labelling or legal requirements, ≥ 1,5 weight % referred to the total weight of the material (weight of the commercial presentation) consumed in all production processes in the time of reference  All chemical materials which contain components that are subject to labelling or submitted to legal requirements (hazardous materials) shall be listed until a total weight of the commercial presentation of ≥ 0,01 % for materials containing components that are marked with the following hazard symbols and risk phrases: Environmental Hazard – N and/or R52, R53, R59; Carcinogenic - Category 1 and 2: T or T+ and R45 or R49; Category 3: Xn and R40; Mutagenic - Category 1 and 2: T or T+ and R46; Category 3: Xn and R68  All chemical materials which contain components that are subject to labelling or submitted to legal requirements (hazardous materials) shall be listed until a total weight of the mixture of ≥ 0,05 % for materials containing components that are marked with all other hazard symbols and risk phrases excluded for the 0,01% cut off definition  Processes that contribute less than 0,1% to the total impact can be omitted from the impact assessment. Regarding the availability in databases:  No exact formulation of the chemical compound present in the database: the substance has to be represented by the similar formulation or by its precursors, which shall be used with a ratio commensurate with their molar weight contribution in the common industrial production process of the compound  No exact formulation of the chemical compound present in the database but alternative compound can be identified. In this case the following conditions should apply: a)The chemical compound should be based on the same reactive group (e.g. –OH, -CHO, -NH2 etc.); b)The alternative chemical compound should have a similar molecular weight; and c)The selected compound should be in the same physical state as the original compound in normal conditions (i.e. gas, liquid, solid). We propose to follow the approach ( used in previous version and more recent of PCR on “Finished bovine leather”)

12. LIFE12 ENV/IT/352 Data Quality Assessment in the study – Data Need Matrix BIONAD 24 Month Meeting January 27th, 2016, UNIFI Premises, Florence (I)

13. Next steps BIONAD 24 Month Meeting January 27th, 2016, UNIFI Premises, Florence (I)  Finalisation of the Goal&Scope phase and its presentation to the project’ partners;  Preparation of a data collection form for data on naturalised and commercial dyes; o Generic data from databases and other sources will be used for background processes  Modelling LIFE12 ENV/IT/352