1. CHAPTER 11
PERMANENT WAVING

2. HISTORY OF PERMANENT WAVING
Charles Nessler invented the first permanent method of curling the hair
This complex system of wires heated up the metal rods that were wrapped around the hair to permanently curl the hair
Possibility of receiving a shock or burn was a fear of the client’s

3. METHODS OF WRAPPING THE HAIR
CROQUIGNOLE WRAPPING
INTRODUCED AFTER WORLD WAR I
WRAPPED THE HAIR FROM THE ENDS TO THE SCALP
SPIRAL WRAPPING
USED FOR LONG HAIR
HAIR IS ROLLED FROM SCALP TO HAIR ENDS

4. COLD WAVES
Scientists discovered waving lotion in Referred to as “cold waves”
It was used to soften and expand the hair so that the hair could form to the size of roller being used
The neutralizer was used to keep the hair in the new position
This perm required no heat and virtually replaced all perms. Alkaline Perms

5. NEUTRAL AND ACID-BALANCED PERMS
These type of perms were less damaging to the hair
pH levels ranging from 4.7 to 7.9 were introduced in the 1970’s
Did not contain strong alkalines and were less damaging to the hair
Slower to penetrate the hair and and less damaging
Requires heat from a dryer or lights

6. MODERN PERM CHEMISTRY Constantly being improved and refined
Different formulas
Both alkaline and acid are available for any type hair
Requires a “two step” process for all perms
Waving lotion- Softens or breaks the internal bonds
Neutralizer- Rehardens the bonds in new form

7. ALKALINE PERMS
Main ingredient is - Ammonium Thioglycolate
Chemical compound made up of ammonia and thioglycolate
pH ranges from depending on the amount of ammonia
Benefits include- strong curl pattern, faster processing time, Room temp processing
Should be used to:
Perm resistant hair
Client has a history of curl relaxing

8. ACID-BALANCED PERMS Slower, but more controllable processing time
Main ingredient is- Glycerl Monothioglycolate
Reduces the pH
Range from
Penetrate the hair more slowly
Requires outside heat in order to process
Produces a softer more natural curl
Slower, but more controllable processing time
Gentler treatment for delicate hair types
Can be used on color treated hair
Produces more style support, rather than strong curl

9. CHEMISTRY OF NEUTRALIZERS
NEUTRALIZERS FOR BOTH ACID-BALANCED AND ALKALINE PERMS HAVE THE SAME IMPORTANT FUNCTIONS:
PERMANENTLY ESTABLISH NEW CURL SHAPE
NEUTRALIZING IS A VERY IMPORTANT STEP IN THE PERMING PROCESS, IF NOT PROPERLY NEUTRALIZED, THE CURL WILL RELAX OR STRAIGHTEN WITHIN 1 OR 2 SHAMPOOING
MOST ARE COMPOSED OF A SMALL % OF HYDROGEN PEROXIDE, AN OXIDIZING AGENT, AT AN ACIDIC pH

10. HAIR STRUCTURE AND PERMING
All perms subject the hair to two different actions:
PHYSICAL ACTION - wrapping sections of hair around the perm rod
CHEMICAL ACTION - created first by a reducingagent (waving lotion) and second by oxidizing agent (neutralizer)
Both of these actions work together to create a change in the internal structure of the hair

11. CHEMISTRY IN PERMANENT WAVING
PROTEIN IN HAIR
BONDS IN THE HAIR RUN BOTH VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL
VERTICAL BONDS - POLYPEPTIDE BONDS KEEPS HAIR TOGETHER
HORIZONTAL BONDS- CROSS BONDS CYSTINE AND DISULFIDE BONDS KEEPS HAIR IN ONE POSITION, MAKES HAIR STRONG