1. Chapter 21- 2,3 OCEAN WAVES

2. Wave  Disturbance of energy transmitted through a medium  Medium- solid- liquid-gas  Crest-highest point in a wave  Trough-lowest point in a wave

3. waves  Wave height- vertical distance between crest and trough  Wavelength-horizontal distance between two crests

4. Wave Energy  Wind- caused by the uneven heating of earths surface  Wind transfers energy to the ocean and forms waves

5. Water movement  Waves move over the ocean-only the energy of the wave moves-NOT the water.

6. Wave size  Three factors  Speed of wind  Length of time wind blows  Fetch – distance wind blows across the water

7. swell  Group of long rolling waves similar in size

8. whitecaps  When the wind blows the crest off waves whitecaps form

9. Waves and the coastline  Breakers- foamy masses of water that wash onto the coast  Refraction-bending of waves toward the coast  Undertow-water carried to the beach by breaking waves is pulled back by gravity

10. Rip current  Form when water from large breakers returns to the ocean through channels that cut through underwater sandbars

11. Longshore currents  Form when waves approach the beach at an angle

12. Tsunami  Most destructive wave  Not powered by wind  Cause  Earthquakes underwater  Volcanic eruptions

13. Tides- lesson 3  Cause of tides  The gravitational pull between the moon and earth  Two high and two low tides per day in most areas

14. Tide Behavior  Spring tides- new and full moon  Earth-sun-moon are lined up  RESULT- higher high tides and lower low tides

15. Neap Tides  First and third quarter, moon and sun at right angles to earth  Daily tides are small

16. Tidal variation  Tidal patterns are influenced by:  Size  Shape  Depth  Location OF the OCEAN BASIN

17. Tidal Oscillations  Slow rocking motions of the ocean water that occur as the tidal bulges move around ocean basins.

18. Tidal currents  Flowing water toward the coast is called flood tide  Ebb tides flow toward the ocean