1. Wave Action Section 1

2. What is a Wave? Wave is the movement of energy through a body of water Most waves form when winds blowing across the water’s surface transmit their energy to the water Wave Size Wave Energy Water Motion Other Wave Characteristics – Wavelength – Frequency – Wave height

3. How Waves Change Near Shore Breakers Near shore, wave height increases and wavelength decreases Tsunamis – Are usually caused by an earthquake beneath the ocean energy through the water above it

4. How Waves Affect the Shore As waves come into shore, water washes up the beach at an angle, carrying sand grains. The water and sand then run straight back down the beach Longshore drift Rip current

5. Waves and Beach Erosion Waves shape a beach by eroding the shore in some places and building it up in others Barrier Beaches Sand Dunes Groins – Building a wall of rocks or concrete; to reduce erosion