1. 1 Fibers and Fabrics Chapter 61

2. 2 Did Your Know? Recycled plastic bottles now make up to 50 to 89% of the content of fake fur, fleece, and other fluffy fabrics. Recycled plastic bottles now make up to 50 to 89% of the content of fake fur, fleece, and other fluffy fabrics. A fleece jacket can be made entirely from melted down bottles (about 25 per jacket). A fleece jacket can be made entirely from melted down bottles (about 25 per jacket). Recycled plastic can also be made to resemble denim, pointelle, broadcloth, jersey blends, and canvas. Recycled plastic can also be made to resemble denim, pointelle, broadcloth, jersey blends, and canvas.

3. 3 One company recycles 2.4 billion bottles a year into polyester fiber, saving enough raw petroleum to power the city of Atlanta for a year while producing strong fibers that resist fading, wrinkling, and moths. One company recycles 2.4 billion bottles a year into polyester fiber, saving enough raw petroleum to power the city of Atlanta for a year while producing strong fibers that resist fading, wrinkling, and moths.

4. 4 Basic component of fabric is fibers Basic component of fabric is fibers Fibers Fibers Tiny strands that, when twisted together make up yarns Tiny strands that, when twisted together make up yarns

5. 5 Natural fibers Natural fibers Fibers that come from plants or animals Fibers that come from plants or animals Absorb moisture Absorb moisture Allow air to reach your skin Allow air to reach your skin Comfortable all year round Comfortable all year round Warm in winter, cool in summer Warm in winter, cool in summer Require more care than other fabrics Require more care than other fabrics

6. 6 Cotton Cotton Most common plant fiber Most common plant fiber Comes from seedpod of cotton plant Comes from seedpod of cotton plant Linen Linen Another common plant fiber Another common plant fiber Comes from stalk of flax plant Comes from stalk of flax plant

7. 7 Wool Wool Comes from fleece of sheep Comes from fleece of sheep Camels, alpacas, goats, and rabbits also provide hair used for special types of wool Silk Made by the silkworm Made by the silkworm Fibers come from cocoon silkworm spins Fibers come from cocoon silkworm spins

8. 8

9. 9 Ramie Ramie Ramie Comes from stems of china grass Comes from stems of china grass

10. 10 Fiber Characteristics Natural Fibers Natural Fibers Cotton – soft, comfortable, absorbent, wrinkle-resistant Cotton – soft, comfortable, absorbent, wrinkle-resistant Linen – is durable, comfortable and absorbent, wrinkles and shrinks Linen – is durable, comfortable and absorbent, wrinkles and shrinks Wool – warm, resist wrinkles, water- repellent, shrinks with heat and moisture (dry clean) Wool – warm, resist wrinkles, water- repellent, shrinks with heat and moisture (dry clean)

11. 11 Silk – lightweight, flexible, strong, natural luster, dry clean, damaged by chlorine bleach Silk – lightweight, flexible, strong, natural luster, dry clean, damaged by chlorine bleach Ramie –strong and absorbs moisture, natural luster, washable, combined with other fibers Ramie –strong and absorbs moisture, natural luster, washable, combined with other fibers See page 590, Figure 61.1 See page 590, Figure 61.1

12. 12 Characteristics of Manufactured Fibers Acetate – silk like look, soft, drapes easily, wrinkles and fades, dry clean Acetate – silk like look, soft, drapes easily, wrinkles and fades, dry clean Acrylic – soft, lightweight, yet warm, resists wrinkles and blends well with other fibers, dry clean or wash Acrylic – soft, lightweight, yet warm, resists wrinkles and blends well with other fibers, dry clean or wash Polyester – resists wrinkles, retains pleats, blends well with others, wash and dries quickly but holds oily stains Polyester – resists wrinkles, retains pleats, blends well with others, wash and dries quickly but holds oily stains Spandex – high degree of stretch and recovery, washable but weakened by chlorine bleach Spandex – high degree of stretch and recovery, washable but weakened by chlorine bleach See page 591, figure 61.1 See page 591, figure 61.1

13. 13 Manufactured Fiber Fibers formed completely or in part by chemicals Fibers formed completely or in part by chemicals Created to replace or copy natural fibers Created to replace or copy natural fibers Nylon = silk acrylic = wool (sweaters) Nylon = silk acrylic = wool (sweaters)

14. 14 Yarns Strands that are formed when fibers are twisted together Strands that are formed when fibers are twisted together Long, straight fibers = smooth, silky yarns Long, straight fibers = smooth, silky yarns Short, curly fibers = softer, fluffier yarns Short, curly fibers = softer, fluffier yarns

15. 15 Blended is a yarn made from two or more different fibers Blended is a yarn made from two or more different fibers Can be made of natural like cotton & linen Can be made of natural like cotton & linen Manufactured like rayon and acetate Manufactured like rayon and acetate *Percentage of each fiber in a blend determines which characteristics will dominate (60% polyester, 40% cotton) *Percentage of each fiber in a blend determines which characteristics will dominate (60% polyester, 40% cotton)

16. 16 For both natural and manufactured fibers, one important test of quality is how it feel to the touch. For both natural and manufactured fibers, one important test of quality is how it feel to the touch. This is called its hand. This is called its hand.

17. 17 High-quality fabrics are made from tightly spun or woven fabrics. High-quality fabrics are made from tightly spun or woven fabrics. They tend to feel soft and smooth and hang well, flowing smoothly over the body. They tend to feel soft and smooth and hang well, flowing smoothly over the body. A tightly spun cotton can feel like expensive cashmere. A tightly spun cotton can feel like expensive cashmere.

18. 18 Manufactured fibers also can produce quality garments that breathe like cotton, hang like fine wool, and retain color better than silk. Manufactured fibers also can produce quality garments that breathe like cotton, hang like fine wool, and retain color better than silk.

19. 19 Fabric Construction Yarns are made into fabric, which is material or cloth Yarns are made into fabric, which is material or cloth 3 basic methods 3 basic methods Weaving Weaving Knitting Knitting bonding bonding

20. 20 Woven Weaving is interlacing yarns to form woven fabric Weaving is interlacing yarns to form woven fabric Yarns are interlaced at right angles Yarns are interlaced at right angles Can be done by hand with a loom Can be done by hand with a loom Warp = lengthwise yards lined up in parallel rows Warp = lengthwise yards lined up in parallel rows Filling = crosswise yarn which is passed over and under Filling = crosswise yarn which is passed over and under

21. 21 Industrial looms make a variation of basic weaves Industrial looms make a variation of basic weaves Each weave produces a different fabric Each weave produces a different fabric Pile fabric like corduroy and velvet (made of 3 sets of yarns) Pile fabric like corduroy and velvet (made of 3 sets of yarns) Twill = filling yarn passes over 2 to 4 warp yarns, producing a diagonal line in fabric Twill = filling yarn passes over 2 to 4 warp yarns, producing a diagonal line in fabric

22. 22 Weaves Twill weave – filling yarn passes over 2 – 4 warp yarns, producing a diagonal line Twill weave – filling yarn passes over 2 – 4 warp yarns, producing a diagonal line Non woven fabric – fibers are matted or bonded with heat, moisture, agitation, pressure, chemicals or adhesives Non woven fabric – fibers are matted or bonded with heat, moisture, agitation, pressure, chemicals or adhesives See page 593, Figure 61.2 See page 593, Figure 61.2

23. 23 Knit – loops of yarn are interlocked, one row after another on special knitting machines Knit – loops of yarn are interlocked, one row after another on special knitting machines Plain weave – filling yarn passes over and under a warp yarn Plain weave – filling yarn passes over and under a warp yarn Satin weave – each filling yarn passes under 4 or more warp yarns then over 1 warp yarn Satin weave – each filling yarn passes under 4 or more warp yarns then over 1 warp yarn

24. 24 Knit Fabrics Done with a single strand of yarn Done with a single strand of yarn Hand knitting Hand knitting Knit = loops of yarn are interlocked one row after another on special knitting machines Knit = loops of yarn are interlocked one row after another on special knitting machines Stretch with movement, return to their original shape Stretch with movement, return to their original shape Don’t wrinkle or fray, but may run if snagged Don’t wrinkle or fray, but may run if snagged

25. 25 Non-woven Fabrics Bonded Bonded Their edges do not fray, ravel when cut Their edges do not fray, ravel when cut No need for special finishing No need for special finishing Felt, fusible webbing (melts when heat is applied) Felt, fusible webbing (melts when heat is applied)

26. 26 Bonded fabrics are simply two fabrics glued together. Bonded fabrics are simply two fabrics glued together. Laminated fabrics have 3 layers, the fabric, a sheet of foam, and a backing. Laminated fabrics have 3 layers, the fabric, a sheet of foam, and a backing. During lamination, heat melts the foam, causing the fabric and its backing to stick together During lamination, heat melts the foam, causing the fabric and its backing to stick together

27. 27 Color & Finishes Dyeing is the process of using a substance to change the natural color of a fiber, yarn or fabric Dyeing is the process of using a substance to change the natural color of a fiber, yarn or fabric Can be done at any stage of fabric making Can be done at any stage of fabric making

28. 28 Some dyed yarns and fabrics are colorfast; others bleed so easily the color rubs off on hands or other clothing. Some dyed yarns and fabrics are colorfast; others bleed so easily the color rubs off on hands or other clothing. Many conditions affect color permanence, including sunlight, acids in perspiration, airborne chemicals, and heat. Many conditions affect color permanence, including sunlight, acids in perspiration, airborne chemicals, and heat.

29. 29 Finishes is a substance added to a fabric to change the appearance, feel, or performance of the fabric Finishes is a substance added to a fabric to change the appearance, feel, or performance of the fabric May make fabric feel more appealing May make fabric feel more appealing May affect performance of fabric May affect performance of fabric Wool = made shrink resistant Wool = made shrink resistant Raincoats = water-repellent finishes Raincoats = water-repellent finishes May be permanent or temporary May be permanent or temporary

30. 30 Gore-Tex is a very thin fabric that is layered between sturdier fabrics to make a garment water repellent and wind resistant, yet allowing it to breathe. Gore-Tex is a very thin fabric that is layered between sturdier fabrics to make a garment water repellent and wind resistant, yet allowing it to breathe. Bob Gore invented this fabric after stretching Teflon nonstick coating into a thin membrane to insulate wire. Bob Gore invented this fabric after stretching Teflon nonstick coating into a thin membrane to insulate wire. He discovered that the pores in the membrane were to small for the water vapor to enter but large enough for it to escape. He discovered that the pores in the membrane were to small for the water vapor to enter but large enough for it to escape.

31. 31 Activity Develop a new super-fabric; Develop a new super-fabric; It is made by blending any combination of existing fibers, retaining only the best characteristics of each one, into the most versatile clothing material known It is made by blending any combination of existing fibers, retaining only the best characteristics of each one, into the most versatile clothing material known List 5 qualities you find most valuable List 5 qualities you find most valuable List fiber combinations that will result in such a product List fiber combinations that will result in such a product