1. Stitch Lengths
By Miss Payne

2. STITCH LENGTH Types Regulation stitch Stay stitching basting
Ease stitching
Reinforcement stitching

3. Stitches per inch - spi 24 mm = 1 inch 6 mm = 4 spi 5 mm = 4.8 spi

4. Regulation stitching:
Most common stitch
Most often used on seamlines
2 or more layers
10 – 14 spi or 2.5 MM
Used everywhere on garment
90% of sewing is done with a Regualation stitch!

5. Staystitching: Use regulation stitch length Used on curves and angles
A row of stitching to prevent stretching during Construction
Sewn Wide to narrow!
Sewn 1/8th inch away from the seam into the seam allowance
Sewn on one layer
Use regulation stitch length
Used on curves and angles
Preparatory step – 1st step is staystitching

9. Machine basting: Large temporary stitches
Distance sewn from the seamline depends on the project
6–8 spi or 3–4 mm stitch length
Mostly used for fitting and gathering

10. Ease stitching:
Used on an edge that is slightly longer than its match (etc. shoulder seams and sleeves)
Condenses threads to create shape without tucks or gathers
Used on 1 layer of fabric
Sewn at 1/8th smaller than seam allowance
8–10 spi or 2.4–3 mm stitch length

11. Reinforcement stitching:
Two purposes – (1) to strengthen seam where you clip to seamline
Sewn a threads width away from seamline into the seam allowance
One layer of fabric
20 – 24 spi or 1 mm stitch length
Preparatory step where you have to do a deep slash

12. Reinforcement stitching
Second purpose: (2) two rows of stitching in area of high stress and seam that stands up
Sewn a ¼” away into seam allowance
Trim to 3/8”
Finish seam edge
Areas to be reinforced include the crotch seam and underarm seam