1. Student Presentations: 1) Lauren Weisel California Current 2) Ben PearsonWalker Circulation/El Nino 3) Sushmita SEC Indian Ocean 4) Stan PiotrorskiWaves on the beach. 5) Nicole DelmonacoGlobal Circ and Climate Change 6) Phil SontagAntartic Circulation 7) Sarah SextonMesozoic Ocean Anoxic Events 8)Eric SinskyENSO/KELVIN/ROSSBY WAVES 9) Robert JacksonMAB Presentations on Wednesday and Thursday

2. sin(kx) or sin(  t)

3. sin(kx-  t) x

4. Beating of two long waves (shallow water waves) Beating of two short waves (deep water waves)

5. Blue n=250 Green n=50 Red n=5

6. A Stone thrown on the water-- a impulsive disturbance

7. 50 m 250 m 500 m

11. Moon moves ~ 4 cm/year away from the earth. 1 billion years ago it was 40,000 km closer to the earth Earth’s slows it rotation by 1.5 ms/century. So in 100,000 years we lose 1.5 seconds 100 million years 1500 seconds (1/2 hours), 1 billion years ago 15,000 seconds (4-5 hours)

12. Moon’s distance at: Perigee ~ 362,000 km Apogee ~405,400 km Tables from Stewart F=n 1 f 1 +n 2 f 2 +n 3 f 3 +n 4 f 4 +n 5 f 5 +n 6 f 6

14. M2 S2 N2 K1 O1 Spectrum of sea-level at the Battery

15. M2

17. O1 TIde

18. Coastal Kelvin Wave

19. Semi-diurnal Tides In North Sea. Classic Kelvin Wave Problem (complicated by Corner!) Blue– Tidal Range Red Time of High water

20. Moon moves ~ 4 cm/year away from the earth. 1 billion years ago it was 40,000 km closer to the earth Earth’s slows it rotation by 1.5 ms/century. So in 100,000 years we lose 1.5 seconds 100 million years 1500 seconds (1/2 hours), 1 billion years ago 15,000 seconds (4-5 hours)

21. ~3/4 in shallow shelf– still nearly 1TW in deep ocean! 20 GW off Hawaii

23. Time of High Water Jan 27 th, 2005 8:42 8:37 8:48 9:15 11:02 8:37 12:07 12:11 12:05 Moon Rise 7:11 AM 10:51 12:17 9:15

24. C=7 m/s