1. RIVET Field Experiment, May 2012

2. RIVET Argus Tower

3. RIVET Camera Coverage C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C6

4. Inlet Current Estimation Locations

5. Inlet Currents – RIVET, 2012 Advection Signal Doppler-shifted Waves Ebb Flow Example seaward landward Exploitable signals in f-k spectra But requires large domain (many wavelengths), so low spatial res.

6. Inlet Currents – RIVET, 05/11/2012

7. A parametric model for barred equilibrium beach profiles CENG, 2014 Holman, Lalejini, Edwards and Veeramony Often need for reasonable approximate beach profiles described by parametric functions Most comment is x 2/3 Dean profile Almost never seen in nature Lack of bars makes hydro estimates very bad Goal to develop and test a parametric model for barred ocean beaches.

8. A parametric model for barred equilibrium beach profiles Assume background concave profile plus bar function Background profile sum of exponential shoreline region plus planar offshore Bar function from Ruessink et al, 2003.

9. Implementation 12 parameters 7 universally calibrated, one site knowledge (h sea ) Need climatological estimates of shoreline and far field slopes and one offshore depth Need remote sensing estimate of bar location (Argus, radar, …)

14. Summary Have developed a new equilibrium profile composed of a concave background plus bar function Requires estimation of climatological shoreline and offshore slopes and one offshore depth Bar position (cross-shore phase) determined from remote sensing (sets all bar locations) Clear improvement to bathy estimation Strong improvement to hydro estimates, esp longshore currents