1. The Role of Argus in the NCEX Field Experiment Rob Holman SECNAV/CNO Chair in Oceanography

2. Argus I

3. Argus II

4. Argus III

5. Pixel Instrument Coverage (early test example)

6. shoreline NCEX Tessellation Array Resolution limited (5 m) 1842 pixels tile

7. Tessellation Array Locations

8. Example Directional Spectra

11. Tessellation Arrays Produce wave directional “spectrum” at any location Extract simple statistics (peak direction?) Use same lag array for depth estimation

12. NCEX Array, 09/03

13. NCEX Array, 09/03 (blow-up) Runup “Old” Bathy Line Vbar Tess (alpha and bathy

14. Longshore Currents (Chris Chickadel)

15. Orientation for Next Slide

16. 10/31/03, 0700 Variance Image Happy Halloween Rip current

17. Radiation Stress Gradients where: S xy = Radiation Stress = mean dissipation due to wave breaking  = local incident wave angle c = celerity Components in both the longshore and cross-shore directions Concentration on diagonal component S xy Optical techniques necessary for all parameters to allow remote sensing Work of Jason Killian

18. Fusion with Numerical Models Based on: Wave direction Surf zone width

19. California Fires, 10/28/03 Mid-afternoon view Southern California

20. Estimation of Swash Velocities Runup transect from NCEX exp’t, 2004

21. Two-minute Time Stack NCEX stack, 2003

23. Band-pass Isolation of Foam

24. Consecutive Intensity Transects

25. Analysis Band-pass to isolate foam Hilbert transform to extract phase and wavenumber U = d(phase)/dt * 1/k

26. Example Sub-stack Results

27. Example Sub-stack

28. Example Sub-stack Overlay

29. Two-minute Sub-stack Example 17 minute run takes 9 seconds

30. Application of Hilbert Approach to Longshore Currents? (and rips?) Longshore velocity = = 0.60 m/ sec yy tt Duck, NC 0 40 Time (sec)  t = 18.7 s  y =11.3 m -2020 Longshore Distance (m)

31. Questions? Dr. Aarninkhof Distinguished Argus Scientist Costas Synolakis Oregon State University Wave Tank, 2003