1. Wave Breaking (10pt)  Which type of breaker for the steepest bottom slope?  Spilling breaker  Plunging breaker  X Surging breaker

2. Wave breaking (10pt)  When T=10s in deepwater, what is the maximum possible wave height H before breaking?  22m

3. Wave-current interaction(10pt)  When a progressive wave meets with a opposing current, its amplitude (increases or decreases) and its wave length (increases or decreases).

4. Wave-theory Selection Diagram (10pt)  Water depth=1m, wave period=7s, wave height=0.3 m  Find the best wave theory  Stream-function

5. Wave breaking (20pt)  Deepwater T=8s, H=2m (Normal Incidence); beach slope=1/20  Find breaker height, breaker depth, and breaker type using the chart  2.74m, 2.72m, plunging

6. Empirical Storm-surge Forecasting (20pt)  Find the maximum sea-rise when Lowest atm pressure=0.85 bar Spatial mean atm pressure=1 bar Bay length=3km Bay mean depth=5m Max wind velocity=40m/s Normal wind direction 194cm

7. Discrete Random Variable (20pt)  Two successive coin flips and a throw of a dice  Random variable s= #of heads + dice face value  Find the mean value = 4.5

8. Continuous Random Variable (20pt)  PDF f(x)=-x^2 + k (0<x<1) (1) Find k = 4/3 (2) Find the mean value of x =5/12

9. Gaussian Process x (20pt)  When mean=2, standard deviation=2 Find Prob(x>3) using G-Table =.308

10. Shoaling-Refraction (30pt) Wave period=9s Wave heading in deep water=45 deg. Wave height in deep water=2m. New wave heading at certain location =30 deg. What is the celerity and refraction coefficient there? = 9.9m/s, 0.9