1. Waves

2. Wave are a mechanism for the transfer of energy. – The larger the wave the more energy being moved – To double a wave height requires about 4x the energy In an ideal wave there is no transfer of matter, or material

3. Types of Waves The type of wave depends on the motion of the particles in the wave – Transverse Wave – is one where the particles move at a right angle [90°] to the direction of the wave

4. – Longitudinal Wave – in this wave form the particles move in the same direction as the wave travels

5. Waves in Water Waves are caused by the frictional drag of wind over the water – Waves of oscillation - water particles move in near-circular orbits which decrease in diameter with depth.

6. – Waves of translation - water particles actually move forward.

7. Description of Waves Wave crest - The highest part of a wave. Wave trough - The lowest part of a wave.

8. Wavelength - horizontal distance between the successive crests or trough of a wave.

9. Wave height - vertical distance between the trough and the crest of a wave.

10. Wave amplitude- the vertical distance from the equilibrium [sea level] to the crest of the wave.

11. Wave period - time interval between the passage of successive crests at a stationary point.

12. Frequency – the number of waves that pass a certain point in a given period of time. – Unit is #/second or Hertz (Hz)

13. Wave base - maximum depth to which waves move the water; equals about half of the wave length.